[Phono-L] Re: Noisy Home

Rich rich-mail at octoxol.com
Tue Jan 2 12:49:42 PST 2007


The rubber washers were mentioned.  These isolate vibration and should be as soft as possible.  
Natural rubber or sorbothane is a good replacement.  Replacements can be made with a set of gasket 
punches and McMaster Carr sells sheet Sorbothane.  You can have a motor that sounds like it was 
crushing rocks but the sorbothane will damp all of the vibration and noise amplification.  The 
commonly available commercial replacements are a bit hard....

I have rebuilt numerous Home A, Triumph A, and Standard A machines and they are a bit louder than 
some of the later machines but not noticeably so.

Rich

On Tue, 2 Jan 2007 12:16:29 -0800, Michael F. Khanchalian wrote:

>Dear George, Walt, Rich, Loran and Ron,

>This input is so appreciated.  I am going to take the gear train fully 
>apart, clean everything and make a close check of all issues brought out 
>here.

>Please add any and all other thoughts, you experts out there.


>I have been told by several that noisy is just the Model A Homes have to be, 
>and that they don't significantly quiet down with most applied heroics.  I 
>have a hard time believing they could have been so commercially successful 
>in that were the case.

>I surely appreciate you Loran and all out there in Phono-L land.

>Happy New Year to you all,

>Dr. K.


>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Walt" <waltsommers at comcast.net>
>To: "'Antique Phonograph List'" <phono-l at oldcrank.org>
>Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 11:25 AM
>Subject: RE: [Phono-L] Re: Noisy Home


>Rich is correct...It is simple Mechanical Engineering 101.

>The primary reason that a low viscosity lubricant is applied to a gear train
>in which one of the dissimilar metals is steel/iron (like in a phonograph)
>is to reduce corrosion. Surfaces that corrode lose smoothness and that will
>increase friction. Also, the corrosion itself is accelerated by the abrasive
>action of the oxides in steel (or iron) combining with lubricants. Brass
>does not readily oxidize like steel or iron. So, by making the mating gears
>out of dissimilar metals, the coefficient of friction is reduced. Decreased
>friction is related to the molecular [lattice] structure of metal atoms.
>When the structures are different, the mating surfaces cannot fit together
>perfectly (at the molecular level, that is), the result of which is that
>there is less surface contact between the two mating/rubbing surfaces which
>correlates to reduced friction. Brass with iron/steel designs have much
>lower coefficients of friction than steel on steel or brass on brass (or
>iron on iron for that matter).

>Correct me if I am wrong, but in order for there to be something you might
>call self-lubrication, the brass would have to have been formulated with a
>something like lead in the alloy to reduce friction; that is, the lead
>molecules actually transfer from the alloy and act as a lubricant to some
>degree? I didn't think that Victor or Edison used lead in their brass gears?
>I might be off on that point but I think it is correct. I am not sure that
>self-lubrication is a true term or not, but I studied electrical engineering
>not mechanical engineering. Brass (and I mean the mating surfaces of the
>gear, not the sides or bushings) is highly resistant to corrosion because
>during use the surface forms a fairly pure layer of copper along with zinc
>oxide which also helps to protect the metal. (That is also one of the
>reasons that metal parts for outdoor use are zinc coated-plated.) Iron
>oxides associated with steel/iron do not protect metals like the zinc oxide
>does on brass, so any corrosion will just get worse, especially if the
>humidity is high.

>Lubricants, especially high viscosity lubricants like grease, collect the
>iron oxide and far from the lubricant serving to protect the surfaces like
>you think it should, it actually works as a medium to suspend and distribute
>the iron oxide in a degenerative manner during operation of the motor.

>Theoretically, no lubrication should be necessary between brass and steel
>gears, but the problem with "theory" is a thing called "reality", and what
>plagues it the most are the iron oxides which spring forth their miserably
>destructive traits because of humidity.

>So, by applying a thin film of lubricant (I am a fan of synthetics myself)
>the hope is that you will eliminate or reduce potential oxidation of the
>steel/iron and thereby reduce friction/wear.

>Most manufacturers of motors even going way back before Edison and Eldridge
>Johnson, etc. to the first clocks, understood the inherent advantage of
>using dissimilar metals in a gear train, and because it was already a
>long-ago proven design by the year 1900, they simply practiced it as any
>good engineering firm would. It wasn't a cost issue at all; it was just good
>engineering practice.

>Walt




>-----Original Message-----
>From: phono-l-bounces at oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-bounces at oldcrank.org] On
>Behalf Of Rich
>Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 12:00 PM
>To: Antique Phonograph List
>Subject: RE: [Phono-L] Re: Noisy Home

>Brass gears meshed with steel gears should never be greased or heavily
>lubricated.  They are self
>lubricating.  Any extra lube will hold dirt which will imbed into the brass
>which will result in excessive
>wear on the harder (steel) gear.  If you van see of feel the lubricant then
>there is way too much.

>Rich


>On Tue, 2 Jan 2007 10:46:15 -0500, Ron L wrote:

>>How are the rubber mounts between bedplate and motor, and between upper
>>works and bedplate?   Are the gears lightly greased or just oiled?  Have
>the
>>conical bearings on the mandrel shaft ever been disturbed, especially
>turned
>>and/or moved in or out?



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